In the local food blogosphere there's lots of mention about Laurent Bernard's Chocolate souffle. Some say its the best you can get in Singapore. I went down today to Laurent's in Mohammed Sultan, specially with the aim of trying it, but unfortunately was told that their kitchen was 'not ready yet'. The souffle wasn't for sale. I went in at about 2 pm, and still have no idea when their kitchen will be 'ready'. Nonetheless, theres a prominent blogger who loves the chocolate tarts there, and so with his online recomendation I made the improvised order. "One chocolate tart first please".
The tart was served alongside coin-sized puddles of drizzeled rasberry sauce, slightly tart, with just the right sweetness. See those interesting vein-like bifurcations on the ganache edge above? This pattern is caused the Marangoni effect. When sliced with a hot knife, the heated and exposed ganache melts, and the liquified emulsion with its high surface tensional forces pulls onto itsef. Notice how the branches get finer as we move lower down the ganache. The extent of melting could have lessened as the knife cools as it made its way down. I don't think many pasty chefs know things like this. But if they do, they certainly will qualify in the area of molecular gastronomy. This vein pattern can be easily prevented by using a cold knife, but you need a very sharp one for a clean cut.
The tart crust was good. Crunchy, with good flavour. Just sitting above the crust was a layer of hazelnut praline with cripsy feuilletine flakes splashed around within the layer here and there. This layer was actually better than nutella, with its more intense hazelnut flavour. Then we have a silky smooth ganache filling up the rest of the tart. The ganache was quite unique in that its top notes - those first flavours that come to the nose upon tasting the ganache - was that of indian spice, not any one in particular, but possibly some combination of it. It was only much layer that I tasted the chocolatey notes. I felt that the flavours of the ganache were not well blended together, seperated by time gaps of distinctly foreign flavours. Then the ganache was also slightly acidic, sourish in nature. But I tasted milk in there in the ganache, likely from the cream. Sour, and milk. What do you get? When milk turns sour... its usually past the expiry date. You get the idea... Laurent should aim for a cleaner flavour profile for the ganache without off notes that run against the primary flavour of chocolate (and also hazelnut) for his tart. But what can be done, if ganache is made this way traditionally?
On the whole, it was a pleasant chocolate tart. A little tweaking here and there should make it better.
Shiokness Verdict: 7/10
This tart was $9.20 after 7% GST and 10% service charge. A scary price for ordinary students like me.
Laurent Bernard Chocolatier
80 Mohamed Sultan Road, 239013
Tel:6235 9007
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